Accessories - January 7, 2020

Introducing The Cal. 321 Speedmaster In Steel

The 321 Speedmaster in steel is here, and it's awesome.

The 321 Speedmaster in steel is here, and it's awesome.

This is the Speedmaster weā€™ve been waiting for. 2019 marked the 50th anniversary of the first moon landing (an occasion we wrote about here) and quite predictably, Omega celebrated with the release of limited edition Speedmasters like the new BA 145.022. They also announced that they would resume production of the famous caliber 321, which went into a platinum cased Speedmaster priced north of $50k. Today, we get our first look at a 321 Speedmaster for the rest of us, a recreation of the “Ed White” ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001 in steel.

Consider this a ā€˜greatest hitsā€™ Speedmaster based on the reference 105.003 as worn by astronaut Ed White during the very first space walk. This is a pre-moon reference* with straight lugs, no guards at the crown, a 39.7mm case, and of course, a caliber 321 beating away inside. Omega has given the 105.003 new life in the form of this 311.30.40.30.01.001, with a few updates to suit the 2020 buyer.

The new ā€˜Ed Whiteā€™ 321 Speedmaster measures in at 39.7mm in diameter with the 19mm lug gap, set with a steel bracelet reminscent of the original. The bezel uses the design of the original (including the dot over 90) but is made from ceramic rather than aluminum. The dial itself is sterile, with only the old school Omega symbol applied, and the Omega Speedmaster copy in white paint. The hour indices are a light beige meant to recreate the aging youā€™d see on an original these days. This is all protected via domed sapphire crystal.

Around back is the biggest departure, with an exhibition caseback with a sapphire window giving you a view to the real star of the show here, the caliber 321. This legendary movement is a manually wound integrated chronograph finished in sedna gold. The caliber 321 has been out of production since 1968 (moonwatch branded speedmasters were outfitted with the caliber 861), so when Omega announced they were bringing it back going into 2019, the watch world was abuzz with anticipation. Weā€™d argue that its use in this watch certainly merits the exhibition caseback itā€™s been given.

Known for its robust build quality (indeed, NASA certified toughness) as well as its classic aesthetic, the caliber 321 has long captured the affection of watch enthusiasts, not to mention space junkies as it was the caliber worn on the moon. To recreate the movement, Omega made scans of the second generation caliber 321 as found in Apollo 10, 17 astronaut Gene Cernanā€™s own Speedmaster. The biggest difference is the sedna gold finish replacing the copper as seen on the original.

The best part, this wonā€™t be a limited edition Speedmaster. Itā€™ll cost over $10k, and donā€™t expect the high volume we see with other regular production Speedmasters in what could be seen as taking a page out of the Rolex Daytona playbook. As a result, resale prices are anyoneā€™s guess, but you can get your Bid in right now on StockX.

 

*Ed White died in 1967 alongside astronauts Virgil “Gus” Grissom and Roger B. Chaffee in pre-launch testing for the first manned Apollo missions. The ref. 105.003 was produced from 1963 to 1965, though were sold through 1969. It is the last of the straight lugged Speedmaster, and was the reference official qualified by NASA in 1965.