You may have noticed a couple cowboys have ridden into town recently. When Paul Cole asked us in 1996, “Where Have All the Cowboys Gone,” we didn’t have an answer. In 2019, we finally know: they’ve were transported through a time warp and ended up on fashion runways and the music charts.
Yes, Western wear is back in the mainstream again in a big way. Of course, some might argue it never really left. There were the days of Ralph Lauren, who in 1978 launched his Western wear line for men and women, resulting in department stores ordering $15 million dollars worth of merchandise. At Bendel’s, a desert landscape was recreated to showcase the line. “The clothes are for our Ralph Lauren customer to wear on weekends in Connecticut,” a store spokesman told the New York Times in 1979. One year later, cult classic “Urban Cowboy” debuted in theaters, fueling the trend, along with the growing obsession with country music, even more. And then, just because it is fun (and some might argue essential) to mention, there was a wee little Justin Timberlake on Star Search, crooning the Alan Jackson country classic, “Love’s Got a Hold on You” in an oversized hat and casual Western Oxford shirt that looked a lot like the bed covers found in three-star Midwestern hotels in the early ’90s.
These days, country couture is having another, renewed moment, brought on largely by its inseparable partner in crime: music. Perhaps its first inklings could be felt back in 2016 – the year when Dolly Parton announced her first tour in 25 years and Rihanna appeared on the cover of British Vogue looking like she was born to wear a cowboy hat. Then there was “Daddy Lessons,” off of Beyonce’s hit album “Lemonade,” featuring country royalty in the form of the Dixie Chicks. They performed it together at the Country Music Awards and basically stole the show.
The stage was set. Soon Western wear trotted onto the runway, from Raf Simons’ first Calvin Klein show to cowboy boots from Celine and Givenchy.
Then, 2018-2019 saw a sort of trifecta appear that pushed Western fashion over the edge: Solange, Lil Nas X and Megan Thee Stallion revolutionized the charts, giving birth to a new Neo-Western era now in full force. The trend of black pop cultural icons wearing country couture became known as the “Yeehaw Agenda,” a term coined by pop-culture archivist Bri Malandro that digs deeper into resurfacing the erasure of the black cowboy from mainstream narratives. For their Fall/Winter 2018 collection, Pyer Moss even featured L.A.’s very own Compton Cowboys in a campaign titled “American, Also” which aimed “to reverse the erasure of the contributions of African-Americans and other minority groups in the context of American culture,” according to a circulated press release.
Lil Nas X’s viral, accidental hit “Old Town Road,” had every reason to not succeed ( a beat sold by a Dutch record producer in his online store, a song turned into a meme on TikTok, an initial video composed entirely of clips from the adventure game “Red Dead Redemption 2”) but we are living in a post-2016 presidential election world, so truly, anything (anything) is possible.
After a controversy with the Billboard charts which prompted bona fide cowboy Billy Ray Cyrus to get back on his horse, mend an achy breaky heart and ride in to support Lil Nas X, the video of “Old Town Road” turned into the ultimate visual yeehaw feast. Since then Lil Nas X has been scooped up by Columbia Records and even scored a clothing partnership with Wrangler.
But herein lies the peasant’s (that would be me and you) dilemma: how do you incorporate country couture into your wardrobe if you’re not a budding country trap superstar or embody the same exquisiteness of Solange Knowles? The answer is bags.
A country couture bag will help you ride this western wave or permanently settle into it in a subtle way, while also making that statement you’re after. Maybe leave the bedazzled fringe shirts and bolo ties to the professionals, and sack up with a bag instead. From Dior’s iconic Saddle, to Fendi’s Zucca print and MCM’s tan visetos leather bags and Gucci’s snake print, you have tons of options to blast Old Town Road to Arby’s or Outback Steakhouse if you’re feeling fancy.
Valentino’s Beaded Rockstud Bag features a multi-color bead design contrasted by stunning red leather and gold-tone hardware. A detachable strap and suede lining complete its look. MCM’s Drawstring Crossbody Bag , on the other hand, is a bag that’s more suitable for every day use. It comes with an adjustable shoulder strap, drawstring top closure and features MCM’s monogram print and blue solid trim.
In 1999, John Galliano presented his Spring/Summer 2000 collection and debuted the equestrian-inspired saddle bag, solidifying its place in bag lore forever. After appearing on the third season of Sex and the City, its popularity grew before dying out for around a decade. In the last year, it has been resuscitated and is everywhere. This saddle bag comes in blue Dior Oblique jacquard canvas, calfskin leather and silver-tone hardware in the shape of the Dior “D.”
Saint Laurent’s leopard print suede bag with fringe is the perfect one to go West with – so keep it in mind as you plan your California getaway. Gold-tone hardware and an adjustable black leather shoulder strap rounds out this Emmanuelle Sac that will let you act out Shania Twain’s “That Don’t Impress Me Much” video – at least in your head.
Fendi’s Mon Tresor Bucket Bag features an updated version of the Italian fashion house’s double F Fendi logo, also known as the inverted “Zucca.” The double F also has a meaning, coined by Karl Lagerfeld: “Fun Furs,” so inherently Fendi is very in tune with the country couture aesthetic without even trying. This mini Mon Tresor bucket bag is crafted from calf leather and features gold-tone hardware.
Gucci’s Monogram GG card case features the king snake, a recurring theme of creative director Alessandro Michele’s collections and a symbol of wisdom and power – original tenants of the cowboy code to live by. The GG Supreme canvas is a material with a low environmental impact, so this is perfect for the kind of cow boy or girl who is also worried about climate change (if you’re not, you should be). It comes with eight card slots and two bill compartments to hold all the money you’ll be making from the rodeo.
