Omega began teasing a new Seamaster well ahead of Baselworld this year, with a bright laser cutting a wave pattern into darkness. This was a not so subtle nod to the original Seamaster dial, which had a wave texture applied to it. Enthusiasts knew what to expect straight away, and many celebrated the return of an iconic (?) ‘90s look. If modern streetwear trends have taught us anything, the ‘90s are hot right now. And so it was, Omega revealed the all new Seamaster Diver watches in a variety of colorways, 6 to be exact.

At first glance, the new Seamaster watches are clearly identifiable within the context of the SMP300 (Seamaster Professional 300 meters) family. It is at once familiar, and new. While each design element is a reinterpretation of the original, there is only one visible departure from the exterior, and that is the placement of the date complication, which has found its way to 6 o’clock on the dial, rather than 3 o’clock from prior generations. Everything else is an update of something very familiar. And that’s not a bad thing.

Let’s start with the star of the show here, the dial. As we’ve seen elsewhere in the Omega stable, the dial is constructed of ceramic, or rather, zirconium oxide (aka zirconia, ZrO2), as you’ll see labeled just south of the dial’s center. The material has a high thermal expansion (similar to that of steel) and is highly resistant to crack propagation. Visually, the material is glossy with an almost grey sheen to it. The laser cut wave pattern extends to just shy of the minute track, and the waves themselves are cut to a depth that ensures light is captured and reflected, making the pattern itself stand out from a distance. The pattern itself may be a bit ‘90s-ish, but the execution feels high tech.

Elsewhere on the dial we have monumental hour markers that, due to their height, reflect in the dial itself, exaggerating their stature. The markers are filled to the brim with Super-LumiNova with glossy caps make for exceptional visibility and legibility. Likewise, the ends of the hour and minute hands get their own lumed cavities, atop hollowed out bodies. The hollow hands will be a love it or hate it feature, but this is a feature unique to the SMP300 and whatever side of the fence you land on, the newest edition won’t hold any surprises.

The interesting details don’t stop there. This is clearly a well thought out dial design that’s easy to get caught staring at. The date is color matched to the dial, and the font of the numbers feels chosen in concert with the rest of the dial signage. The minute are blocked out between the hour markers making it easy to get the exact minute read at a glance. The red of the “Seamaster” at 12 o’clock is echoed by the end section of the seconds hand. These are the small discoveries that will keep a smile on your face when checking the time. It will also fall prey to the dreaded “I just looked at my watch but I don’t know the time” syndrome.

Moving on to the case, we find one of the biggest departures from models past, the size. Prior Seamaster 300 iterations have been celebrated for their wearability, and when the new model was revealed to be 42mm, it was cause for some concern. In practice, the watches wears more like a little like the Speedmaster, which is also 42mm. Thanks to the short, “twisted” lug design, the watch fits neatly within the confines of a 7” wrist. Would it be better at 41mm? Probably, but this is an easy to wear 42mm watch, so don’t let that number scare you.

For all intents and purposes, this is a very user friendly case. If you’re coming from Rolex sport watches, you’ll find the crown of the Seamaster far easier to unscrew and manipulate thanks to its placement slightly protruding from the case. It’s the same with the bezel, which still features those broad grooves that are easy to grab and turn. Lastly, there’s the finishing, which has a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The polished surfaces highlight the shape of the lug, but without much of the “bling” factor you’d expect. There’s really only one qualm with the case, and it’s a remnant of every SMP300 to date, and that’s the HEV (Helium Escape Valve).

In brief, a small subset of divers spend prolonged periods at great depth and pressure breathing a trimix, usually containing helium or hydrogen. Helium atoms have an easier time penetrating the seals of a watch, and when the diver returns to the surface via decompression stops, those atoms need to go somewhere.  The helium release valve allows the release of that pressure once the diver has ascended. It was first introduced by Rolex and DOXA, and it’s been a feature of the Seamaster Professional since its introduction in the ‘90s. The Sea-Dweller still features this valve as well, though it’s integrated into the case wall in a manner that neatly tucks it out of view. The HEV on the Seamaster, however, looks like a second crown located at 10 o’clock on the dial. Given the fact that this feature is relevant to an exceedingly small percentage of the population, it seems an odd appendage to incorporate into the case. But that’s the way it’s been, so there’s no real surprise here unless you’re a newcomer to the brand.

On the wrist, the HEV is the only sore spot, and it shouldn’t be a deal breaker. Overall, the watch wears wonderfully for a dive watch. It’s easy to read, the available rubber strap contours to the wrist, and the keeper is even tabbed to lock into place on an open hole. Compared to something like a PloProf or DSSD, the Seamaster is downright demiure.