Buyer's Guide: Nike Air Max 97

Declaring any style of sneaker the most influential of all time is difficult, if not impossible. There’s an endless array of factors to be considered, and even then, individual styles and personal opinions mean coming to any kind of definitive endpoint is pretty futile. 

With that being said, if we were to try and make that big declaration, it’d be seriously tough to make many arguments against the Air Max in its many iterations.

Boasting technology and aesthetics that revolutionised both the sporting and fashion worlds alike, it’s difficult to even begin to fathom the impact that Nike’s crowning development has had, and continues to have, right across the sneaker world. 

While we could sit and gush about Nike’s endless back catalogue all day long, for everyone’s sake, on this occasion, we’re narrowing things down to just the Air Max 97.

A Brief History

As the name conveniently suggests, the shoe debuted back in 1997 from the wondrous creative mind of Christian Tresser—fresh from a hugely successful tenure at Reebok—in that now-iconic silver hue. 

While anyone with a passing interest in sneaker history will almost certainly have heard how the striking aesthetics had been inspired by Japanese bullet trains, for the most part, that was a complete myth (or marketing ploy from the clever folks at Nike). Tresser has admitted that while those streamlined trains had played a small part in his design process, it was actually a water ripple effect that inspired the wavy upper and his love of mountain biking that influenced the vibrant colour palette. 

While the Air Max 97 initially struggled to hit the same astronomical highs as the 95 it was by no means a flop, eclipsing its immediate predecessor the 96. The shoe would also become a particular hit in Italy throughout its release year. 

Former Elle Magazine editor Michela Gattermayer summed that success up quite brilliantly, saying: “I have to admit that I first found them horrendous..but that kind of fascinating horrendous.”

Fast forward to the present day, and the Air Max 97 has cemented its status as a firm favourite in the Air Max catalogue—leading to some of the most sought-after releases and re-releases in Nike’s history. 

To help you on your way to copping the perfect pair, we’ve run through some of the most famed takes on the Air Max 97, along with the most commonly asked questions about the shoe. 

Nike Air Max 1/97

Some would argue that this is the most famous version of the 97 of all time, even more so than the original. After Nike invited 12 creatives to put their own spin on the silhouette ahead of Air Max Day 2018, it was Sean Wotherspoon’s design that fans wanted bringing into the real world.

Combining the Air Max 97 upper with an Air Max 1 outsole and midsole, Wotherspoon’s innovative creation instantly became the stuff of sneaker legend. The colourful corduroy upper stemmed from old school Nike hats and windbreakers, and their ability to pair perfectly with any vintage white T-shirt. 

Nike Air Max 97 Undefeated 

In the same year that the AM97 celebrated its 20th anniversary, beloved LA sneaker boutique Undefeated were throwing their own party to mark 15 years of being a cultural behemoth.

Using that initial Italian popularity as inspiration, the collaborative shoe’s side panel striping offers a clear callback to Florence fashion house Gucci, channelling the famed green and red colour palette so synonymous with the luxury label and letting it sing against the stunning triple black upper. 

Nike Air Max 97 Off-White

Every time the late, great Virgil Abloh went to work with Nike, the anticipation surrounding any imminent drop was understandably off the charts. That sentiment rang even truer when it was announced he’d be lending his distinct style to the Air Max 97, otherwise known on this occasion as ‘The Ten’. 

While the two-tone colour scheme was relatively understated by Abloh’s standards, largely letting the shoe’s original build take centre stage, this iteration of the 97 was still unmistakably his. The oversized contrasting swoosh, the “Air” heel stamp and the synthetic cable tie—subtle callbacks to his pioneering style, complimenting the iconic build of the silhouette. 

Nike Air Max 97/BW Skepta

A standout moment in the already-fruitful linkup between Skepta and Nike, the shoe blends the full-length air bubble of the 97 with the BW upper. “When I was younger, the Nike Air bubble was the flex”, Skepta said upon its release. “The bigger your air bubble was, the more people knew you were stepping well”.

After his first collaboration was a celebration of Marrakesh, this time, the pioneering artist paid tribute to another location central to his success, Paris, a city that wholeheartedly embraced Skepta in the early stages of his career. 

Air Max 97 Silver Bullet

Finally, we head back to where it all began. The Silver Bullet will forever hold a substantial place in the Nike story, if nothing else for the sheer audacity of the aesthetics that once again shifted the perception of what was possible in sneaker design. 

More than 20 years on, the 97’s influence over the streetwear world and on popular culture across the globe remains colossal, and it’s probably safe to assume that won’t be changing anytime soon. 

How does the Air Max 97 size up?

As is usually the case with most Nike trainers, the Air Max 97 generally runs true to size. The only exception is for those with wider feet, who may want to go half a size up, just to be safe. 

Is the Air Max 97 comfortable? 

Thanks to that full-length Air sole, the Air Max 97 is renowned for its comfort. It’s worth noting, that due to the variety of materials used across different models, the upper can sometimes be a little stiff out of the box, but shouldn’t take too long to break in. 

How do you clean Air Max 97 trainers?

Nike themselves recommend initially using a dry brush to remove any loose dirt, a toothbrush will work just fine for this step. 

Next, mix warm water with a small amount of laundry detergent or dish soap. For white/light trainers, equal parts baking soda and water can also be used to create a cleaning paste. 

Remove and hand wash the laces using the solution before dabbing dry with a soft cloth, then, using a soft-bristled brush, toothbrush or cloth, clean the outsole and midsole. 

For the uppers, apply the same solution, taking your time and not scrubbing too hard. Use a dry microfiber towel or soft cloth to blot and lift the soapy moisture and dirt. Repeat this process for stubborn marks. 

Finally, air-dry your sneakers at room temperature, ensuring they are fully dry before wearing them again.