The jeans of choice of your favourite ‘90s rapper, and still worn by many today, including Travis Scott, Evisu is back on the global stage with their collaboration with Palace, paying tribute to their role in UK club culture in the late ‘90s and early ‘00s. For those of you hearing about the legendary Japanese denim brand for the first time, here’s everything you need to know.
What is Evisu?
Evisu Jeans (or Evisu Genes to some) was founded in Osaka in 1991 by Hidehiko Yamane. Hidehiko had previously worked as a tailor but started Evisu because of the lack of quality in mass-produced modern denim. Hidehiko sourced old school tools and machinery to replicate the quality, and “raw” denim feel that he could only find in vintage items. Evisu jeans are instantly recognisable from the painted-on seagull logo on the back pockets.
The intense labour process for Evisu jeans–the denim had to be indigo-dyed 30 times–meant only 14 pairs could be made each week in its early days, which gave them their hefty $300 price tag, making them all the more luxurious.
Why was it so important to the UK club scene?
The free parties of early ‘90s acid rave saw free-spirited partiers don smiley-faced t-shirts, baggy trousers, and neon bucket hats that were perfect for wearing in muddy British fields.
As the UK music scene developed through the ‘90s, so did its fashion. The emergence of UK Garage and Jungle brought about a more mature, polished look. Going to a warehouse rave, or a fancy club down the West End was the perfect excuse to suit up in your freshest garms. The instantly recognisable bold designs of Moschino, Iceberg, and Versace were favourites among club-goers. With its distinct seagull logo decorating all of its pieces, Evisu only became more conspicuous over time and solidified itself among the big Italian houses adopted by the club kids.
What’s behind the name and logo?
The brand name Evisu is a play on the name “Ebisu”–the Japanese god of luck and prosperity. Hidehiko is a keen fisherman and, in the beginning, would hand paint each seagull logo onto the pockets of the jeans himself.
Who’s the MC featured in the video?
The video features London’s legendary Jungle and Drum n Bass MC Skibadee alongside Palace team skaters Lucien Clarke and Rory Milanes. Skibba, as he’s known, performed the freestyle, especially for the video which weaves from an inconspicuous petrol station, through a retro-futuristic world, and back again. Being one of the biggest names in the scene at its peak, Skibba embodies the true culture and spirit of British rave culture.
What’s releasing and when?
The Palace x Evisu capsule dropped on Friday, April 3, and of course, it was an almost instant sell-out on the Evisu and Palace Websites.
The multicoloured Evisu seagull logos that cover the indigo-dyed jeans, denim jacket, and denim bucket hat all hark back to the conspicuous branding of the ’90s club fashion which inspired this drop. If you’ve got the style to rock these seriously bold pieces, we salute you! For those of you wanting to get in on the ’90s nostalgia in a more pared-back fashion, check out the three branded t-shirts, two hoodies, and two crew neck sweat tops arriving in an array of neutral tones. And don’t forget the branded tote bag to carry your Tamagotchi, Walkman, and all other ’90s essentials.
