The NATO strap is about as humble a means of affixing a watch to your wrist as you could imagine. It’s utilitarian, cost effective, practical, and driven by efficiency more than anything else. And that’s what makes them so cool. These days, it’s not uncommon to see NATO straps adorning everything from $50 watches at J. Crew, to $50K+ Patek Philippe timepieces. Like any trend that comes and goes, they aren’t without controversy. But NATO straps are nothing new to watches, and their popularity can be traced to a brief moment in movie history.
So, what the hell is a NATO strap? It’s a single piece of woven fabric, like Nylon, that slips between the lugs of a watch and around your wrist, usually doubling back over itself once or twice to fit within the keepers. They were developed by the British Ministry of Defense (the NATO nomenclature comes from its stock number, as it could be purchased from NATO supply stores). Soldiers who filled out the correct form (the G1098 form, to be exact) would be granted a strap from their unit’s supply store. They could have any color they wanted, as long as it was Admiralty Grey.
That’s not what made the strap famous, though. For that, we can thank Sean Connery, or rather his on screen personality, James Bond. Her Majesty’s most stylish spy donned a Rolex Submariner 6538 (the “Big Crown”) in the 1964 film, Goldfinger, and during its momentary close-up, clearly visible is a NATO strap holding it to his wrist. This appearance didn’t immediately catapult the NATO into popularity, but it sure helped seal its fate as a future must-have accessory for watch collectors.
James Bond wearing a Rolex 6538 on NATO strap in Goldfinger.
These days, the NATO may be a little played out, as they say. Brands like Tudor and Omega are officially offering them on new watches, and suppliers the world over are happy to sell you a cheap one in whatever color or pattern you choose. Still, you’re likely to find at least one in the drawer of every collector. They are an easy and quick way to change the personality of a watch by adding a touch of color and a dash of weekend casual styling. And much as they started life, they are practical, utilitarian, and in the right conditions, even comfortable. If you want to raise a few eyebrows, strap it to your 5960P and prepare for the wrath of purists everywhere.
