The 2018 edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, or SIHH, as it’s known, is well underway in Geneva, Switzerland this week and there are a few early favorites beginning to emerge. SIHH is the platform of choice for the Richemont Group of brands (Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and many others) to present their new models and collections for the year. An increasing number of independents, such as MB&F, H. Moser & Cie, and Ressence, are taking part as well. So what kind of trends are we seeing this year, and what are the early standouts? Let’s take a look.
Broadly speaking, 2018 looks to be a return to classic form for a lot of luxury brands. That means a focus on new materials, colorways, and subtle tweaks on recognizable shapes. Panerai has even ventured into sub 40mm territory, which may signal the final move toward more sensible sizing trends. Of course, there are still a few rather impressive complications to enjoy, particularly from A. Lange & Sohne, and Audemars Piguet camps, as you’d expect.
From Cartier, new models in the Santos and Drive de Cartier collections.
Cartier Drive de Cartier Extra Flat
Cartier has introduced a new collection of models to their iconic Santos family, which celebrated its 100 year anniversary… in 2004. Also new from the Maison for 2018 are additions to their newest family, the one-year-old Drive de Cartier. The new Drive watches are extra-flat and come in steel and yellow gold variants, each in 39mm in diameter and just 6.6mm in thickness. These are welcome additions to a line that was introduced just 2 years ago. Best of all, pricing starts at $5,600 for the steel version.
Cartier Santos in steel
The Santos collection is entirely new this year, and that means 4 new designs offered in both medium and large sizes. The design is a return to form, and you won’t be mistaking these for any other than Santos watches. What is entirely new is a quick change strap system, which allows for swapping between the leather and steel bracelet options a breeze. If you want a historic, unique, timeless watch, the Santos should be your first stop. Pricing starts at $6,250 in steel.
All new Polaris watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre
JLC Polaris Memovox
Jaeger-LeCoultre has revamped their entire Polaris line, introducing no less than 5 new models to the family. Your options now include a simple, time-only affair in the Polaris Automatic; a Polaris Date, two chronographs, one regular and one world-timer, and finally, a limited edition Polaris Memovox which celebrates the 50th anniversary of the original, complete with alarm complication.
JLC Polaris Automatic
The stand out for us is the humble Polaris Automatic. It’s the most accessible in size (41mm) and in price ($6,600), but doesn’t skimp on style and execution. For the price, you’re getting an in-house movement (as you’d expect from JLC) in the Caliber 898/1, and a more sporty exterior than the Master Control Date introduced last year. The watch can also be had with a black or blue dial, each with dual surface textures from the center to the outer ring and applied hour markers. This one will be popular.
Panerai introduces new Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic Acciaio sized at 38mm
Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic Acciaio 38mm
Yes, you read that correctly, soon you’ll be able to buy a Panerai Luminor sized at 38mm. If that doesn’t signal the end of the oversized watch trend, well, we’re not sure what will. The new watches retain all the usual Panerai hallmarks of the Luminor line, including the large 6 and 12 hour markers, a sandwich dial available, and of course, the crown guard you know and love (or hate). Are these intended to be women’s watches? Perhaps, but we wouldn’t be surprised by strong interest from the male crowd for this one. The Due 3 Days Automatic Acciaio can still be had in 42mm if you just can’t get on board with a 38mm Panerai.
Audemars Piguet goes to town with the Royal Oak
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” in titanium and platinum
Audemars Piguet expanded their prolific Royal Oak family a bit further this year, with new time-only examples, on up to an extra-thin perpetual calendar. Along with a slew of new Royal Oak Offshore models, AP has introduced a new 15202, or Royal Oak “Jumbo” constructed of titanium and platinum. This isn’t the first time this reference has seen additional materials at us, but this mixed-use is unique for its case and bracelet being titanium, while the bezel and bracelet links are polished platinum (regular 15202 models have a brushed bezel surface).
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD2
What else came out of AP this year? Oh yeah, the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar in the form of the Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The “RD” bit there stands for Research and Development, so no, you won’t be able to buy this one. This watch is special thanks to its novel construction, which places a full, self-winding perpetual calendar (with leap year indication) into a case that measures 6.30mm in thickness. The movement itself is just 2.89mm thick. Pretty much magic.
A world’s first from A. Lange & Sohne
ALS Triple Split
This was a relatively conservative year for Lange, who brought new black dials to their Saxonia line, a new material (rose gold) to their 1815 Chronograph, colorful Guilloché dials to their Lange 1 collection, and what else… oh yeah, an entirely new Triple Split Rattrapante Chronograph. That last one just may be the star of the entire show, creating a new iteration of the brand’s now iconic Double Split that features the world’s first triple split rattrapante chronograph complication (what’s a rattrapante?). The dial is grey with blue and red accents, with twin sub dials just south of the midpoint. Around back, the view is nothing short of breathtaking, as you’d expect. Keep an eye out for more on this beast in the coming weeks.
