The Cultivated Wrist
On this week’s edition of The Cultivated Wrist, we’re covering steel sports watches from some of the biggest names in the business. There are watches that find some function in their style, and there are watches from which style is inconsequential to function. You can guess which camp these watches fall into with a quick glance at their credentials, which include over engineered cases and movements, to water and magnetism resistance. They’re famous for working anywhere, from your deepest dives to the surface of the moon.
The Black Bay established itself as an entry-level mainstay in the dive watch category back in 2015, and it’s shown no signs of slowing down since. It’s been released with red, blue, and black bezels, gone from ETA to in-house movements, and now, you can get one with a steel bezel. This example ramps up the throwback feel with a red triangle at 12 o’clock on the bezel, a single line of red text on the dial, and a riveted steel bracelet. Best of all, it’s still a great value, even with the in-house movement. This example has an ask listed at just $2,800.
The Ingenieur has been a staple of IWC tool watches since the early 50’s. Styling has gone from classic and distinguished, to bold and robust through the years, but one thing has remained consistent (excluding the most recent generation), it’s technical bend to scientists working near the influence of magnetic fields. This Inge features an integrated steel bracelet and a chronograph complication with lever style pushers. They fit nicely into the porthole design and set it apart from more typical chronograph designs. This example has an Ask listed at $3,900 right here.
The Omega Speedmaster has a reputation that precedes it at this point, it’s got a story associated with NASA and their trips to the moon, which you can read more about right here. The Speedmaster is offered in a diverse range of configurations these days, but if you’re looking to stay true to its roots, this is the model for you. It looks nearly identical to the ones worn by astronauts, right down to the hesalite crystal and hand wound movement. It’s a timeless classic, and there’s an Ask of $4,410 listed on this example.
The Submariner is the archetypal dive watch, so much so that it is arguably responsible for creating the tool watch category so non-divers could justify wearing it. The oyster bracelet is comfortable in action, the ceramic rotating bezel is practical, and the cyclops date magnifier is iconic from a distance. Inside is a thoroughly over-engineered automatic Rolex movement that’s chronometer certified. It winds as smooth as butter and will keep ticking straight into the generations you planning handing it down to. There’s an Ask listed at $7,600 on this example.