We’re ditching round cases in this week’s edition of The Cultivated Wrist. If you’re looking for a watch that bucks the status quo then we’ve got you covered with this lineup. From squares to bullheads these watches prove you don’t always need to stick to conventional wisdom when it comes to making a great mechanical watch. Get your floaties on, we’re heading into the deep end.
Omega Seamaster Bullhead Co-Axial
When Omega revealed the Seamaster Bullhead at Baselworld 2013, fans of the brand immediately recognized the throwback shape as a modern rendition of the Bullhead Chronograph from 1969. It’s called the Bullhead because, well, look at it. With crowns at 12 and 6 o’clock, and the chronograph pushers set right up at the top of the case, this watch straight up disrespects conventional wisdom. Bonus point for housing an Omega built co-axial movement. There’s an Ask just under $8k for this example.
What would a collection of oddball cases be without mention of the PloProf? This legendary dive watch was a mainstay on the wrists of professional divers through the 70s, including that of Jaqcues Coustaeu. It’s case design is instantly recognizable from a distance, and the orange helium relief valve makes no apologies (realistic usability be damned). Today the PloProf carries the torch of over-engineered dive watch, looking just about identical to its predecessors. For that, we love it. There’s an Ask of $7,500 listed on this example.
Bell & Ross have long taken inspiration for their case designs from aviation instrumentation, and the BR0392 is no exception. The square case is distinctive, and in this example, wearable thanks to its svelte dimensions and use of ceramic. Legibility isn’t bad either, with massive hands and numerals. It’s a watch with personality and this example has an Ask listed at $5,100.
Girard Perregaux may have a reputation for classic dress watches (we love the 1966 line), but when it introduced the Chrono Hawk in 2013, they took a step in a new direction. The angular case features large surfaces that curve to the wrist, which, along with the integrated strap, makes for great wearability despite its 44mm diameter. The symmetrical dial layout sets a chronograph totalizer and running seconds hand against each other. Best of all, you’ll get a premium in-house movement inside the Chrono Hawk, and it’s visible through the exhibition case back. There’s an Ask of $17,000 listed for this example.
