Buyers Guide: Omega Speedmaster

If you’ve spent any time at all around watches, chances are good you’ve owned or thought of owning an Omega Speedmaster. It’s a timepiece that represents all there is to love about this hobby: historic credentials, horological importance, and it happens to be pretty handsome. All that together has led to some real staying power, and while Omega has taken the Speedmaster in many different directions over the years (for better or worse), you can still buy one today that looks just like the first one they sold in 1957, and like the ones taken to the moon in 1969. Which one is right for you? We’re breaking down some of the references available on StockX right now that you should be aware of before buying (or Bidding).

The reference 3573.50.00 Speedmaster is notable for a few reasons. Most obviously, the dial design is true to its “professional moonwatch” roots from the mid 1960s. However, it’s covered by a sapphire crystal rather than one made of hesalite, making it far more scratch resistant and overall a bit more modern in feel. Turning the watch over you’ll see the biggest departure from the original, with the presence of an exhibition caseback (a features first seen on a Speedmaster in 1980). Around back you’ll get a clear view of the handsomely decorated manual winding Omega built caliber 1863. This a modern take on the Speedmaster and we love it for its unique character without getting in the way of its true identity.

If you want something modern but still as true to the original as possible, you’ll be looking for the reference 311.30.42.30.01.005. This is a watch with about as clear a lineage to the early professional models as you’ll get, including a hesalite crystal and stepped dial. Inside is the manually wound Omega caliber 1861 – if you haven’t noticed, most “enthusiast approved” Speedmasters will have manually wound movements. Bonus point for this one as it comes with a full presentation box, including a NATO strap, a plaque, a loupe, and even a strap change tool.

Need something even closer to the original? Then you’ll be looking at the reference, 60th Anniversary reference 311.10.39.30.01.001. As the name suggests, this is an anniversary model (released in 2017) of the very first Speedmaster, which was introduced in 1957, and it’s a bit more than an hommage, it’s a damn near carbon copy. The dial design, the hands, the case size (38mm), the bracelet… all of it is spot on to the original 1957 model.

Speedy Tuesday, the Instagram communal watch hashtag started by our friends at Fratello Watches in 2012, may be a new advent, but the watch Omega created to celebrate it (the Speedy Tuesday) is indeed a special one. We’ve written about this one before, but it’s worth noting again that this is a watch that takes inspiration from the 1978 Alaska Project III watch, and features a fully brushed case, a reverse panda dial, and of course, a hand wound caliber 1861. Just 2,012 examples of this watch were built, and they sold out quickly, but thankfully we see them pop up in the resale market from time to time.

If you want a Speedmaster, but fashion yourself a bit of a contrarian, the Speedmaster Mk II will be of interest. At a glance, it’s easy to see how the Mk II differs from the classic Speedmaster aesthetic, thanks to its brushed cushion case that does away with the lugs entirely. The dial boasts a more colorful rendition of the familiar chronograph layout, with hints of orange at the hour markers and the timing seconds hand. It’s a strong dose of funk, but we think it’s super cool, and a great way to stand apart from the ordinary Speedmaster.

Taking a step further off the path, we’ve got a more recent addition to the greater Speedmaster family with the Dark Side of the Moon. This is a Speedmaster, but not like the above, The biggest difference you’ll notice straight away are the two registers at 3 and 9 o’clock (the minute and hour timing hands are consolidated into the 3 o’clock sub dial), the larger case, which clocks in at 44mm, and the *gasp* automatic co-axial movement visible through the back. Did we mention that the case is made of ceramic? Yeah, this one is a very modern take on the Speedmaster.