Bulgari Flexes With Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

Bulgari tapped into something special when the released its Octo Finissimo Automatique in 2017. The ultra-thin watch broke records for the world’s thinnest automatic watch (Piaget broke it in 2018), and the design was and is avant garde. They’ve followed up on the watch with other, very thin, variations, and this year they are claiming a new record for the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph. It’s all packed in the same svelte design we’ve come to know and love (or hate).

Chronograph watches aren’t known for their wearability, and when one comes along that’s considered comfortable enough to daily, it’s hailed as an accomplishment (this is one reason the Daytona is so popular). Conversely, there’s nothing more disheartening than finding a chronograph you love, that becomes nearly unwearable due to its case profile (hrmmm). Handwound options like the Speedmaster usually fare better in this regard, but none better than a truly bespoke in-house option. But these are hard and expensive to develop and manufacture, hence the conundrum we find ourselves in. Consider all of this context for what Bulgari has achieved with their new Octo Finissimo Chronograph. Oh, did we mention there’s a GMT complication in there as well?

Here’s the only number you number you need to know about this watch: 6.9mm. That’s how thick this watch is (not the movement, the entire watch). The most common automatic chronograph movement out there, the Valjoux 7750, is 7.9mm thick, and that’s just the movement. The incredible movement found within this Finissimo Chronograph is a scant 3.3mm thick.

They’ve achieved this by mounting the oscillating weight (the part that makes it an automatic) around the periphery of the movement. This allows everything to be mounted flush to the base plate, which you can plainly see through the exhibition caseback. The nicely finished movement is made all the more impressive considering there’s a GMT complication present as well, which takes the 3 o’clock sub dial.

The case and dial design sticks to the Octo Finissimo script, meaning it’s angular to the tune of 8 sides (Octo) around the dial. The design can be seen as polarizing, but there’s no understating the achievement here. The case and dial are both sandblasted titanium and serve as a dramatic backdrop to the black hands and dial printing. It’s hard to overstate just how impressive a watch this is from Bulgari, especially considering the price is well under $20,000, at $17,500.