As much fun as it is to swap straps on your daily wearer, doing so requires a standard lug separation, usually a span between 18mm and 22mm wide, connected by a straight spring bar. It’s a feature that’s limited in its design versatility. Thankfully, some watches eschew this standard in favor of an integrated bracelet design. These watches gain a unique personality as a result, and they’re the subject of this edition of The Cultivated Wrist.
The IWC Ingenieur has a storied past, and it’s a watch that’s changed form a number of times throughout that history. It’s gone from classic round case to a porthole design penned by Gerald Genta, and back again to its traditional rounded roots in recent years. The last generation of the Inge featured an integrated strap design, which placed a notch between the lugs that extended into the strap itself. This integrated bracelet is a bold move that adds stability to the otherwise large case and helps the watch wear a bit easier on the wrist. This Mission Earth edition is a perfect example, and there’s currently an Ask listed at $4,000.
The Seamaster PloProf is the ultimate expression of mechanical dive instrument. It’s big, it’s case is, well, square-ish, and it’s got a massive appendage in the form of the helium escape valve. It’s unnecessary to 99.99% of us, but it’s also endlessly cool as a result of being totally over-engineered. It also lacks a traditional set of lugs. Instead, the bracelet or strap seemingly disappeared into underneath the case. Traditionalists will say anything less than a beads-of-rice bracelet is missing the point. And we say they have a point. This example has an Ask of $8,000 at the moment.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is legendary for a few reasons. The intricate tapisserie dial, the octagonal case designed by Gerald Genta, and last but certainly not least, the bracelet. The linked design, originally built by Gay Freres, is different with each step and ends up integrating into the case with elegance. It might not look it, but this is one of the most comfortable bracelets on the market today. It’s also one of the most instantly recognizable. It’s a classic that has stood the test of time, looking as good today as it did when it debuted in 1972. This Royal Oak Chronograph is currently listed with an Ask of $14,000.
