New Balance has been on a roll during 2019, with an abundance of brand collaborations, and a partnership with recent NBA champion, Kawhi Leonard. New Balance has achieved feats that many in the sneaker industry did not anticipate. Although New Balance is widely known for its chunky “dad shoes,” its newfound dominance is largely due to the 99-X (990v1-5, 991, 992, 993, etc.) series shoes.
With so much attention paid to chunky shoes, New Balance has been able to push the design envelope with their three-decade strong 99-X shoes. At the forefront of the 990s is the New Balance X-90, designed by Samuel Pearce. The X-90 combines elements from other New Balance favorites, including the 99-X series of shoes, and pays homage to the brand’s drive for innovation. We chatted with Pearce to learn more about the shoe’s concept and the designer himself.
The following interview has been edited for length and clarity.
StockX: Before we talk shoes, I think we should address the bigger thing here which is your extensive NB collection! The only person that I can think of that has anything remotely close to your collection is Richie Roxas. How did this come about? Were you collecting NB before working for them, or or did working for the brand spark your collection?
Some pieces from Samuel Pearce’s New Balance archival collection
Some pieces from Samuel Pearce’s New Balance archival collection
Some pieces from Samuel Pearce’s New Balance archival collection
Samuel Pearce: Being a fan myself I have a pretty good relationship with the collectors out there. it is Richie and I that seem to find the weirdest stuff. I guess I seriously started picking pieces up around 12 years ago. I wore New Balance (NB) because they stood for something different compared to the likes of Nike and adidas, they were the best at adding little extras to their releases, like certificates and shoe bags.,I got hooked early and I have been searching ever since.
Has collecting all of these New Balance items helped inspire certain designs?
Without a doubt. There is only a limited in-house archive available so I set about educating myself by picking up obscure models and slowly piecing together a complete brand catalog archive. My extensive knowledge of the brand’s history has really given me an opportunity to express myself and tell these stories in my work.
So, the X-90s: how did this shoe come about? Did you already have an idea about what you wanted the shoe to look like?
Two or three years ago the knitted “sock” upper was on-trend, but we had identified the upcoming shift towards the chunkier look so I wanted to bring a fresh perspective to the 990 series ahead of the trend.. I wanted to introduce a new, younger consumer to our premium “Made In USA” line via the X-90.
The shoe is an amalgamation of some prolific 99-X models. What does it feel like to have a shoe paying homage to such a lineage of iconic silhouettes?
A bundle of New Balance 99-X sneakers surrounding the X-90
To me, the 990 is the pinnacle, in terms of a running legacy line, so it was a great platform to experiment with. I relished the challenge of building something new from what has been done before. I introduced a sleeker toe profile, using a booty topline for the first time, and updating unique details like the collar straps that had previously been considered very traditional.
Just recently, you unveiled the X-Racer. This shoe forced me to research the other models used to make this silhouette and I learned more about other models I never knew existed. I assume that you’re also interested in educating through your work?
It’s exactly that. NB has an amazing back catalog of models but most people are only aware of the 574 and 990 lines. I used this [the X-Racer] as an opportunity to experiment with our history in racing shoes, using design elements from the late 90s and mixing them with modern tech to create a totally new aesthetic. I go deep when it comes to designing product. Every line is in reference to something with the idea being that the longer someone owns the shoe, the more “Easter eggs” you will discover.
Now that you’re a part of the history of the 99-X series, what’s it like to be able to say you’re in the same line of work as someone like Steven Smith?
I am good friends with Steven and to be mentioned in the same sentence as that pedigree of designer is truly an honor. Like myself, he was an NB advocate long before he joined the brand. I think that love naturally comes across in your work. Passion breeds success.
For a look at the only authoritative New Balance 1500 archive in the world, go here.
