Accessories - March 19, 2019

Patek Philippe Introduces A New 5235 In Rose Gold

The unusual reference gets a breath of rose gold air.

The unusual reference gets a breath of rose gold air.

Patek Philippe first released the reference 5235 in 2012 to mixed reactions due to it being a regulator, as well as its commercial application of the brand’s Advanced Research components. Regulator watches have long remained outliers thanks to their unusual layout, which breaks the hour and seconds hands into their own sub dials, allowing the minute hand to track the time within each hour on its own. This alone relegated the 5235 (which first appeared in G/white gold) to curiosity and downright oddball to most casual onlookers. But enthusiasts and collectors took note at the inclusion of an annual calendar complication, and at the use of next generation movement components such as a Pulsomax escapement with a Spiromax balance spring and Gyromax balance.

The OG 5235G was a tough get from its introduction for the above reasons combined with a small delivery run. Whatever your thoughts on the design, there was no denying it was one of the most interesting releases from Patek in recent memory. It makes sense then, that this year they are following up on it with the new 5235R. The newest watch retains the design of the old, but applies an entirely new color and material scheme. The 5235R is constructed of rose gold with a contrasting dial comprised of a brushed center section serving as a base for the matte black sub dials.

Inside beats the same 31-260 caliber you’d find in the original. While some of the high-tech parts have found their way into other production references, they feel no less special here. And of course, the micro-rotor keeps everything of full display, inducing the sublime finishing on the chamfers across the bridges. The annual calendar complication remains as well, with the day and month displays at 10 and 2 o’clock, and the date sitting at 6 o’clock. That’s a fair bit of complexity fitted within a case that measures a scant 40mm in diameter and 10mm in thickness.

Retail pricing is set at $51,850 and we’d expect this one to be a tough find at retailers as well. Keep an eye on Patek Philippe listings on StockX to get your Bid in.