Supreme’s interest in Japan is well known. James Jebbia told Glenn O’Brien in 2009 that he goes there once a year to get inspired. Beyond Jebbia’s inspiration, Japan stands as host to six brick and mortar stores (more on Supreme’s brick and mortar locations here), more than even the US. It should come as no surprise then, that one of Supreme’s repeated collaborators comes in the form of Japanese brand, Undercover.
Undercover was founded in 1990 in Japan by Jun Takahashi while he was attending Tokyo’s Bunka Fashion College. The brand’s roots are deeply involved in punk rock; just take it from their brand motto, “We Make Noise, Not Clothes” or the fact that Takahashi used to play in a Sex Pistols cover band. The brand was originally sold at “NOWHERE” a store opened by Takahashi and his good friends, Nigo and Hiroshi Fujiwara. Collaboration, for Undercover, became a key piece of their puzzle as they’d go on to collaborate very heavily with other brands inside of Japan as well as street artists like KAWS and Futura.
At a glance, one could make the broad statement that Undercover is the Japanese Supreme, or rather that Supreme is the American Undercover. The same person would also assume that it was just a matter of time before the two brands came together, which happened for the first time in 2015. The first collaboration between the two streetwear super powers yielded 21 total pieces from highly coveted tees to leather jackets. Post-2015, the two brands have come together two more times, once in FW16 and again in SS18, this time involving 1990’s rap collective, Public Enemy. We’ve pulled together lookbooks and product shots from each collection below, scroll down to take a look.
Supreme x Undercover SS18
Supreme’s SS18 collaboration with Undercover and Public enemy was a widely comprehensive collection that featured over 35 items including accessories and even a pair of Dr. Martens. The collection’s theme pulled inspiration from Public Enemy’s third studio album, Fear Of A Black Planet, which has lived in the Library of Congress since 2005. The album’s artwork is blatantly featured on many of the items dropped as a part of this collection, including the Taped Seam Parka and the Puffy Jacket with removable sleeves. This collaboration also showcased a second collaborative collision between the rap collective and Supreme as the two collaborated first in 2006, twelve years prior. The entire Supreme x Undercover x Public Enemy SS18 Collaboration can be shopped on StockX here.
Supreme x Undercover FW16
Supreme and Undercover came together for the second time in FW16, releasing a 30+ item apparel and accessory collection. The collaboration pulled heavily from Undercover’s punk rock roots, including two separate Dr. Marten silhouettes as well as wool overcoats in a black and dark red colorway. The collection also featured heavy anarchist symbolism, with circled “A”s gracing a solid amount of items released as a part of the collection. Well noted as one of the standout pieces of the collaboration, The Coaches Jacket features imagery from “The Fall of the Rebel Angels”, a painting by Netherlandish Renaissance artist Pieter Bruegel the Elder. The jacket now sells on StockX for sometimes more than three times retail. The collection also featured several strong tees including the Seven Samurai Tee in black and white and a Supreme emblazoned Medicom Gilapple Light. A selection of the drop can be shopped below and the entire Supreme x Undercover FW16 release can be shopped here.
Supreme x Undercover SS15
Supreme’s first collaboration with Undercover came during the Spring of 2015 and set the stage for the collaborations that would follow (especially that of FW16). The theme of anarchy was strong established as the trenchcoats cheekily feature the phrase “Anarchy Is The Key.” The two brands also collaborated on Box-Logo-style garments, with several featuring the graphic of a bear with a box logo over its eyes and one tee with a witch behind a green box logo. The tee’s have become iconic over the years, attracting similar hype to that of a traditional box logo. The two also released collaborative Bear Pillows featuring the same graphic. A selection of the Supreme x Undercover SS15 collaboration can be shopped below and the entire drop can be shopped on StockX here.
Thanks for checking out this edition of our Supreme 25th Anniversary content. Stay tuned to the StockX blog throughout 2019 for more featured posts, and check out our entire catalog of Supreme 25th Anniversary content here.
